One hundred and 16 years have brought much change to what is now the largest inhabited Island in the continental United States. The influx of Hollanders on North Whidbey in 1894, increased the population and the business climate. Coupeville, after getting the County Seat away from San de Fuca, found a growing population and prominence, and on South Whidbey several areas have grown into economic centers: Langley, Clinton, Freeland, Ken’s Corner and Bayview. Smaller centers such as Greenbank, and Marketown, near the gate of Whidbey Naval Air Station, also serve area patrons.

In 1889, the year Washington became a state instead of a territory, Whidbey Island was served by boats that made several stops per week at the largest population centers, which happened to be Langley, Coupeville, Coveland, (now San de Fuca) and Oak Harbor. Coupeville was the most established center, proud of its Academy of Higher Learning, its churches, homes and business.

Oak Harbor was a struggling market town for the farmers north to Deception Pass; the Hollanders had not yet arrived.

At San de Fuca there was wild speculation over railroads, platting the town that was sure-to-be, the possibility of a canal from the head of Penn Cove to the western side of the Island, and a railroad as well as a new name. On South Whidbey logging and scattered farming were the occupations.

In 1889 there was no Fort Casey (now Camp Casey and Fort Casey State Park), there was no bridge across Deception Pass, no ferries served other points on Whidbey. Automobiles had not as yet taken over and roads were difficult even for the horses and wagons that served the farm communities.

But in 2005, looking back over the years, one finds a number of fascinating old “landmarks” especially in Coupeville. Two-story New England type houses are a testimony to the many sea captains from that area who settled with their families on this far away Island in Puget Sound. There are also remnants of wooden business houses that are still in existence on Coupeville’s Front Street, packed with tourists during the summer and weekends. Even Oak Harbor still has a few old buildings and houses left.

In the countryside there are sturdy red barns that have stood the test of time, if not for 100 years, very near to that number. On Ebey’s Prairie, in the Swantown area and at Crescent harbor, are the remains of homes built in the 1870s, barns with rock foundations; and other reminders of another day. Today’s visitor to Whidbey Island finds bed-and-breakfasts, motels and many restaurants to cater to the appetite for tourism. A museum for Island County was built in Coupeville, and is filled with artifacts, pictures, histories and other fascinations, that are well over 150 years old.

Deception Pass Bridge and State Park, built by men of the Great Depression and the Civilian Conservation Corps, is one of the most popular spots in the State of Washington. Whidbey Island Naval Air Station, nestled in what was once Clover Valley, has been a continually growing concern, which has given a new impetus to the social and economic life of North Whidbey.

Oak Harbor, now Whidbey’s largest town, is situated on a remarkable waterfront beach, and offers a community theater; a popular Marina; a Dutch windmill on City Beach that is a landmark for inbound boaters; up-to-date shopping districts, churches, theaters and gardens. An Island Transit bus runs the length of the Island to take one to quaint Coupeville and the center of county operations, then south past Greenbank to Freeland and the busy South Whidbey centers.

Fort Casey is a favorite spot for visitors, with several authentic “big guns” from World War II in place along the battlements, and picnic spots everywhere.

South Whidbey State Park, just off the highway south of Greenbank offers a different “peace and quiet” and sunny beaches, while Langley, off the highway on the east side of Whidbey, offers visitors a most interesting small town atmosphere.

The ferry at Clinton is the visitor’s exit from or entrance to beautiful Whidbey Island, and is reputed to be the “most kissed ferry in the world” by returning Islanders. The ferry ride itself is a unique experience, a brief journey across Saratoga Passage between Mukilteo and Clinton.

The years have been good to the nation’s “largest inhabited Island” and to its Islanders. Only time will tell what will transpire in the next 100, but today Whidbey Islanders frequently refer to their environment as “Paradise,” much as the Northwest Indian tribes did many years before the white man came.

North Whidbey of 1891 was a busy place, although the number of settlers were few compared to today’s influx of “incomers.” In April of 1891 two new families were added to Oak Harbor, the Case family from Michigan on the Crone place in Crescent Harbor, and a man from Seattle who bought 15 acres of the pioneer Buzby place for $1,500! The new Methodist church was completed in Crescent Harbor and ready for the plasterers. It was one of the handsomest buildings on the Island, built by the Lovejoy Company of Coupeville, but was later demolished when the newer church was built in Oak Harbor and the Navy took over the property. It was reported that a Chinese fishing junk came into Penn Cove and sailed in to San de Fuca. She was boarded by Customs Officers from Port Townsend but no contraband was found.

The “Chinese Menace” was written about at this time when several hundred Chinese were working on Whidbey Island. It was said they worked for less than white men, and thereby sent wages down and unemployment up. The pioneer version of “outsourcing.”

On the heels of the announcement of a proposed starch factory at San de Fuca, a match factory, a cannery and shingle mills were also proposed at the site, although they never did come to pass. San de Fuca did, however, have - and still has - one of the oldest school buildings on the Island. It has recently been renovated back to the way it was originally, to the days when all the children between Oak Harbor and Coupeville attended classes there.

Also in 1891, George Peregoís (Peregoís Bluff) home near Ebey’s Landing was destroyed completely by fire; and A. W. Bash of Port Townsend was getting ready to build a new house at Oak Harbor, with plans to plant an orchard. The Bash house, which later became the Eerkes house, was located where Skagit Valley College is now. The Eerkes family later built a beautiful new house on the site, but it was moved to Maylor’s Point when the Navy came, to become the Admiral’s Quarters; the last time we checked it was still there.

Lee Brainard moved to Whidbey as a Navy wife in 1961 and worked for the local paper. She moved onto the base in 1970 where she spent the next 15 years as editor and reporter for the Navy Crosswind. During that time she started working for Dorothy Neil, editing and publishing nine of Dorothy books and editing Spindrift Magazine. In 1990 she and her husband published the Town Crier, an Oak Harbor community newspaper. She is also an active member of the Oak Harbor Soroptimist club.